Another Hackney pub gets a burger residency. Can it rival OFM's stint at the Three Compasses though?
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fries
We’ve whined before when chefs have thought they could create something from scratch that will be better and they’ve all failed dismally. Until now.
“And it looked like a typical diner burger - apart from the tsunami of special sauce…”
Whenever I go to visit friends in Ireland, I always try to find a way to hit up Supermacs, the fast food burger chain of Ireland. It’s incredible - go into a big one, like Eyre Square in Galway, and you can get pizza and fried chicken too. It’s immense, and it’s an enjoyably messy scrum late on a Friday or Saturday night.
Their burgers are sauced to the max, and their chilli cheese fries are as filthy as they come. Take me here drunk and I’ll lob 20€ at food with reckless abandon. And as we all know, that’s about £50 at the moment.
However, on my last few visits, my compadres have insisted we go for a classier burger fare, and so Eddie Rocket’s it was. Now Eddie’s goes for a quasi 1950’s American diner vibe, think Ed’s Easy Diner and you’re on the right wavelength. Also, if you’ve seen last year’s excellent ‘The Guard’, then you’d recognise it. This one was plonked in a leisure park opposite a cinema, so maybe throw in a bit of out-of-town TGI Friday’s and a dash of Frankie & Bennie’s for good measure.
Buoyed by the presence of American cheese on the menu, I thought I’d hit up the embarrassingly-named Cheeez Please. The waitress promptly caused panic by looking all befuddled and saying: ‘You mean cheddar right? They’re the same thing’.
No, I didn’t mean cheddar. Hmmm.
Sitting up at the the counter, we were able to see the chef at work, pounding the meat onto the grill with a round patty smasher. Sadly, it stayed on the grill for way too long and the cheese was thrown on the patty literally seconds before it was put in the bun. Heartbreaking.
Seconds later it was in front of me. And it looked like a typical diner burger - apart from the tsunami of special sauce: a weird pale, nuclear yellow colour. Very off-putting. On first bite though, it wasn’t that bad. The patty was seasoned and had clung on to some juice, the sauce was mayo with a touch of mustardy-spice (only a tiny touch mind), and the veggies were plentiful and crisp.
The cheese had fought hard to melt, against the odds, but separated upon eating rather than stringily pulling away. But the bun. Oh, the bun. It was stale to the point of crunchy, and therefore repelled moisture. A real let down on an otherwise passable effort.
The hot wings that accompanied were solid, and the bacon cheese fries were covered in an awesome cinema-style nacho cheese, even if its main ingredient was clearly salt.
Nice try Eddie’s. But on my next trip though, the plan is most definitely Occupy Supermacs.
- Rob.
“It is ridiculous how succinctly the name of the place describes the burgers they sell.”
Everything in this place is simple and unfussy - the interior is plain red and white, in a mid-century diner fast-food joint stylee.
The menu is as bare as it could be. Even the font they use feels simple. They’ve arguably nicked some tricks from the Five Guys and In ‘n Out playbook (even to the point where bacon is available, but not on the menu), but then Portlanded it up to match the ridonkulously hip district it’s situated in.
The burgers are strictly no-nonsense. And they are incredible.
The first thing you notice is how fresh everything is: the lettuce is alarmingly crisp, the onions are uber-crunchy, the tomato is taut and full of flavour, the swiss was melty, but not greasy at all. The patty was cooked medium to perfection; the meat was soft and seasoned well. Even the brioche bun tasted like it had just been baked, and is exemplary.
What made it all the more surprising was they used English style rashers for the bacon, something we usually frown upon at B/A, but in this instance seemed to work well. As did their take on ketchup, which rounded out the burger’s flavour brilliantly.
It is ridiculous how succinctly the name of the place describes the burgers they sell. When they arrived, we both commented on how small our burgers were, but their size belies how much is actually there - by the time we’d eaten them, we were both more than adequately full.
I’m practically gushing about this place, but honestly, it was the burger of my trip. You know a burger joint is good when a queue forms at 11.30 in the morning.
…and I haven’t even mentioned the truffle fries, which were terrific too.
- Rob.
“You’ve got to do something pretty remarkable for the hyper-connected SF populous to notice you…”
Straight off the plane after a delayed flight, we dump the bags at the hotel, hail a cab and head straight for Roam Artisan Burgers which sits more or less in the middle of Union Street. The next time you’re in San Francisco, I recommend you do exactly the same thing because Roam has my top burger of 2011. It’s called the French and Fries, and here it is:
A luxurious combo of creamy California avocado, dijon mustard, melted gruyere and watercress with a few truffle-oiled parmesan fries poking out just for the sheer hell of it. This thing was a fucking revelation. Roam aren’t scared to shift from burger tradition and introduce a few unorthodox ingredient combinations, and frankly they nail it every time. You’ve got to do something pretty remarkable for the hyper-connected SF populous to notice you (and form the consequent, ever-present queue out the door) and Roam have done that with laid-back aplomb.
Each burger is put together with genuine care, and all the individual ingredients are the best they can be. The bun is firm but squidgy, the patties are flawlessly cooked and the meat flavour is never masked by the addition of various homemade sauces.
To gush further, all of Roam’s speciality burgers cost eight bucks each.
Eight dollars.
It’s so unfair.
I’ve not had anything as confidently brilliant as the F&F anywhere else this year.
For the sake of comparison, we tried the Heritage burger. It’s a slightly more traditional bacon cheeseburger, albeit with fontina cheese instead of Swiss or American. It was also effortlessly competent.
A quick mention must also go to the ‘Fry-fecta’, a selection of all three types of fries: russet potato, sweet potato and courgette with onion. Supermodel looks, salty more-ishness and not a hint of grease anywhere to be found. Sharing them almost broke out into a fight. Heaven as starch.
I cannot stress enough how much of an SF must Roam is.
EIGHT FUCKING DOLLARS!
- Simon.
